The word heaven was hung in the title. But, neither you nor I know what heaven is like. Nevertheless, if you finally find a place that gives you happiness, you have to resort to a fictional word like heaven. I also took it, and I apologize for this at the beginning.
Nepalis who identify themselves with the name of the highest peak, Mount Everest, are scattered all over the world. Few of them have had the opportunity to reach not only the top of Mount Everest but even the foot.
The day I reached the foot of Everest, I also did not think that this was a place I should visit. However, after the visit, I asked myself – what if I did not reach the base camp this time too?
However, reaching the base camp is not my dream today. Perhaps because of the base camp dream, I had started searching for many things on Google and YouTube a few years ago. However, I started getting ‘confused’ because each content carries different information. And the more ‘confused’ I became, the stronger my dream of reaching the base camp became.
Between Dashain and Tihar, the crowds in Kathmandu decrease, and the tourist season begins. This is also the main time for meeting friends from abroad. Taking advantage of this time, I decided to fly to Lukla on Kartik 29. Before that, I bought equipment for winter and climbing on the Internet.
After learning that American Amazon.com is a reliable place to buy equipment for mountain climbing on the Internet, I bought the equipment without worrying about the price. I also started training a month in advance. I had already started saving money for the trip. I started walking 12 kilometers a day in the morning to keep my body in shape a year ago.
Although the plane took off late from Kathmandu in the morning, the cold did not give any indication that it was afternoon when I reached Lukla. As soon as we got off the plane, the little children, the porters, and the guides around the airport gate were laughing at us as we rushed to take selfies.
Everyone is busy with their own needs and desires. While we were on our way, we were looking for employment. Perhaps this is what life is all about.
Our guide Nirjaraj Kulung was waiting for us. Since we had never met before, it was very difficult to get to know each other. Maybe it was because he didn’t ask, ‘What kind of clothes are you wearing?’ like a chat friend from the past, we felt a little sad.
Kulung brother took us to Paradise Hotel in Lukla for breakfast. We had a simple meal. We paid 350 rupees, a total of 14 hundred. We packed our bags and started the downhill route through the Lukla market.
After reaching a little higher, the road started to climb. A couple of young women were hugging and singing a song in the courtyard, – ‘Our Tenzing Sherpa climbed the peak of the mountain…’
The path was fun. Light climbs and then steep descents. We walked hand in hand, chatting and walking along the hollow path. From time to time, the path we walked reached the banks of the Dudhkoshi. And the waves and murmur of the Dudhkoshi flowing under the path would distract our minds. I, the child, would take out my musical instrument and play it from time to time.
I sat down at the Choplung and drank water to relieve my stomach ache. My stomach could not bear the effects of the water of Kabul, Kathmandu, and Lukla. The stomach ache did not allow me to enjoy the beautiful scenery, mountains, and the stream of travelers along the path. Nevertheless, I was enjoying it, ignoring it.
We reached a little further and had veg chowmin at the Double Diamond Cafe in Chaurikharka, Solukhumbu. It was 250 per plate. Then we headed towards Phakding. The big peaks on the right and left were dancing with the clouds in the damp sky. Whether it would rain or snow.
We could not reach Namche that day. We decided to go to Hotel Waterfall in Bankar, Chouri Kharka 1 and stay there.
After reaching a little higher, the road went uphill. A couple of young women were hugging and singing a song in the courtyard, – ‘Our Tenzing Sherpa climbed the peak of the mountain…’
‘Our eyes did not see, climbed or did not climb the peak.’ We laughed.
Once upon a time, when a Sherpa climbed Mount Everest, a song of pride was composed. However, the other tribes there were jealous and made a song called ‘Angga…’.
I also remembered another anecdote – when journalists asked Tenzing, “How many attempts did it take you to reach the peak?”
Tenzing could not speak Nepali at all, he said with difficulty, “Re- Charhayo- Jharyoor, Charhayo-Jharyoob, Charhayo….”
The others added, “Jharyo.” Then Tenzing got angry, “Jharena, Charhayo.”
This meant that he had succeeded in climbing Everest in three attempts.
The news talked about Edmund Hillary climbing Everest for the first time and Tenzing along with him. However, in reality, guides reach the peak before tourists. So some Nepalis encouraged Tenzing, “You have reached the peak before Hillary.”
I washed my feet and went to sleep. The water from the waterfall kept splashing around my ears all night long. Although my ears were fine, my nose was still sore.
The smell coming from Nirjaraj’s socks seemed to be more than just a mild intoxication. I covered my nose with a handkerchief and fell asleep.
I believe that sleeping as long as possible during the journey will give you more energy. My friends, on the other hand, have joined two sisters who have no beliefs to watch a local cultural program at a school a little below.
They told me in the morning. You can’t be a fool like a fool in a silauta. My close friends are gone.
We woke up at six in the morning in the bunker, had a cup of tea, and left the friendliness of Yalji’s sister there, and started down, stretching our legs on the uneven stones.
The jingling of the mules (the hooves of the yaks of the lake and the cows of the aul) and the walking of the passengers had made the wide path on the cliff narrow.
The sound of the bells hanging from their necks and the driver’s (the person who was carrying them) shouting ‘hoi hoi’ seemed to wake up the forest.
We reached Jorsalle by running/squeezing along the way. Hotel owner Vijay Tamang distributed hot water, milk tea and piro tupka. We paid 1750 for lunch and started climbing Dobhan. We started climbing the ladder-like path, saying it was going to heaven.
After reaching Topdanda, we got our first glimpse of Everest. We reached Namche and walked around the market.
Namche’s Sagarmatha National Park
That evening, we stayed at the Amadablam Hotel in Kenjong. We bathed our sufferings in the solar-powered hot water for Rs. 200.
I asked the name of the sister who brought slippers to the bathroom door. She said Sita. Another sister distributed Sherpa tea. I asked her name too. Usha. Did Kulung make Sherpa tea? How sweet the tea was.
We chatted with them over the fire in the chimney. The fatigue disappeared. Sometimes I think, – How boring the world would be if there were no women in this world?
At bedtime, all the members working in that hotel started to sleep there, rubbing their bodies. They all used to sleep in the dining hall. Even though there were rooms in two big houses, I felt uncomfortable when the workers had to sleep on the cold floor of the dining hall. My body felt as if it was covered with cold on the mattress in the warm room. The cold air here made my heart very uncomfortable and depressed.
After midnight, I found it a little difficult to breathe. They used to say that I was having a cold. In Kathmandu, my brother-in-law had put garlic pickle in a bag, after eating a spoonful of its juice, I lay down with my pillow a little higher, which made breathing easier.
The night passed.
The Imja River was flowing down, flowing white and flowing. Since it was in a swamp, the place was damp. On top of that, I played the Bachche bazaar and started dancing with the tourists I met on the way while drinking coffee. Along with my tune, the foreigners started singing Nepali songs, Lesam Piriri… (Silk Firiri). I had a lot of dancing energy. We left.
We had to climb the hill to Tengboche, after drinking a little tea. We paid 1900 for three people to reach Tengboche.
The sun was starting to set. Since it would take more than an hour to reach, Nirjaraj said, “Let’s walk a little faster, sirs,” and walked ahead. I reached a little further and finally found him. We have to go and book a hotel, otherwise, we will have to sleep in the dining hall, he was hurrying.
I suddenly had difficulty breathing at night, just like yesterday. I woke up in a panic. This had never happened before two nights ago. The windows and doors were blocked.
They were locked, I opened it. I bit a clove of garlic. My mouth started watering. My friends were also chatting in the next room. I felt relieved, they were alive!
I went outside for a moment to get some fresh air. The Amadabla Himal was still smiling even in the middle of the night. What surprised me the most was that the stars in the sky were so bright and thick.
We woke up early from the Alpine Hotel and set off for Gorpaship.
The Thamaserku Himal greeted us. We also greeted each other with the virgin smile of that day. It felt like they were saying, ‘You and I are close relatives, right?’ Because we were not foreigners.
Then we slowly started climbing. The chef of the Kalapathar Hotel was Rabin Tamang, a resident of Nagarkot. He made black tea while chatting. He had left home and come here because he was short of money.
The steep climb made me sweat. Ashim Bhai has lost a lot of weight compared to the previous year, otherwise he would have looked worse than me. That’s probably why he didn’t seem to have much trouble climbing up and down. He even put his hiking stick in his bag and walked with youthful vigor.
The caves, creeks, cliffs, and forests were filled with fun that day. Ankala Dai also tried his best to walk. The hot water in the thermos he carried did wonders.
After walking for about two hours, we reached Rai Bhai’s ‘Alpine’ hotel and settled in. As usual, we spent the night eating dal, rice, and vegetables. We slept in fear that we would die at night, so we started waking up all night. The fifth night was also spent peacefully.
We woke up early in the morning, paid a total of Rs. 5160 for food, and set off for Gorak Septir. Which would be our last hotel stop.
Although the base camp is at 5365 meters, the guide said that you can go up to the height of Kalapathar mountain at 5545 meters to see the golden view of Everest. After reaching Kalapathar, you have to stay at Gorakh Shep and go to the base camp. However, we do not have enough time. So, after resting a little, we started climbing to touch the nose of Kalapathar at around 2 pm.
It was difficult to reach 5545 meters. I put this Kalapathar in the forefront of the climb so far. The strong wind blowing from the bushes of Sundhupi and other lakes overwhelmed our senses. We were stunned. Our heads started spinning.
While taking photos, three Spanish girls took photos naked. Then two boys also took photos under their pants.
Kalapathar, which shines in the country and abroad
After a while, the wind started blowing even stronger. It was as if the steep slope had fallen off. I sat down on a rock ledge. Other friends did the same and took cover.
Our German friends were also in our group. But they were a few meters below. Due to the strong wind speed, they fell a little lower, below us, to lie on the rock ledge.
The wind died down a little. We looked again at the surrounding attractive mountains, hills, and everything visible from this peak. The nameless, quiet lakes on both sides of the mountain foot where we were standing looked very beautiful.
We kept stretching and stretching the camera lenses until the last rays of the sun kissed the top of Everest. The white mountains visible during the day gradually began to look like golden plates.
The sun went down. As we descended from the black stone, it suddenly became dark on the path as if a light had gone out. We turned on our headlights.
Weaving the final dream of reaching the main destination tomorrow, the base camp, tomorrow, at Gorakhsip, we headed to our respective cold rooms after having lunch.
As always, the mountains bathed in the soft morning sun. We also drank only lukewarm tea and set off on the journey to the base camp.
On the last day’s journey, we carried items such as lunch, tea in a small thermos, maps, a pair of warm clothes, and a banner.
The base camp was a slightly flat area. After reaching there, we took some photos and videos with friends from different countries. We tried to go a little further by cutting off the base camp. However, it was not possible. Because sharp, sharp, sharp ice blocks had broken through the ground and sprouted. If we stepped on them, we would either slip and fall under the cliff or fall and injure ourselves.
On the other side, avalanches from the slopes of Mount Everest and Lhotse had formed snow gullies. In 2014, 14 Sherpas sacrificed themselves here, buried in an avalanche. While taking photos, three Spanish girls posed naked. Then two boys also posed naked under their pants.
It’s good to have fun. But how relevant is it to take nude photos at such historical sites? How relevant is it to put videos and photos on YouTube? This is something that the Nepal Tourism Board will decide.
After reaching the base camp, another world
Everyone took out their food from their bags. Nirjaraj, who had prepared it at the hotel, took out tea and a cup from his bag. I shared almonds and cashews.
A Japanese girl also joined us in our lunch. She ate some almonds and drank tea. I was hungry, who wouldn’t drink hot tea for free at the base camp’s altitude of 5,380 meters?
I sat on the frozen ice and drank tea. I also acted out swimming on the frozen ice. Everyone’s eyes were focused on me. We jumped on the frozen snow for a moment.
After walking for five minutes, I suddenly felt like doing a small task. That was to run from the base camp to Gorakhshep.
Without saying anything, I ran at 11:15 in the morning and reached Gorakhshep at 12:15. It took us two and a half hours in the morning, but it took us only an hour to return. That too remained another unforgettable memory of my Base Camp journey.
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